On the street where my wife grew up, in a small town near the Marine base at Iwakuni, there is a mountain that kneels in the road every morning.
His name is Gus.
He's 68. From Arkansas. A retired Marine gunnery sergeant. Six-foot-five. Shaved head. A bald eagle tattooed down one forearm. He has a voice like a truck downshifting and a face that looks like it was carved for a recruiting poster in 1975.
Forty years ago, he was stationed at Iwakuni and fell in love with a local girl named Keiko. When he retired, they came back to her hometown to grow old.
Gus was bored. So without asking him, Keiko signed him up for the neighborhood school watch. In Japan, volunteers stand on the corners every morning and make sure the children get to school safe. It's usually tiny grandmothers in yellow vests.
Keiko gave Gus a yellow vest. It came down to his ribs.
On his first morning, three first graders saw him on the corner and burst into tears.
Gus did not know what to do. So he did the only thing a Marine knows how to do with a problem.
He got lower.
He went down on one knee, right there on the sidewalk, until his eyes were level with theirs. He looked like he was proposing to the entire first grade.
He had learned exactly one Japanese phrase for the job. Keiko taught it to him the night before.
"Itterasshai."
There's no English word for it. It's what we say when someone leaves the house. It means "Go." But it also means "Come back." It's a little promise you ask someone else to keep for you.
Gus said it like an order.
"Itterasshai."
And the kids, still sniffling, said what Japanese children always answer.
"Ittekimasu." I'm going, and I'll come back.
That was four years ago.
Every school morning since, at 7:20, Gus has been on that corner. Rain. Snow. Typhoon season, in a poncho the size of a tent. He learned all 140 names in the first month. He kneels for every first grader. He fist-bumps every sixth grader, very seriously, like they're closing a business deal.
The kids call him Yama-san. Mr. Mountain.
He keeps bandages in one pocket and hard candy in the other. When a kid forgets an umbrella, Gus gives them his and walks home soaked, whistling. When a boy whose parents were splitting up started showing up with red eyes, Gus started showing up five minutes early, just for him. They never talked about it. They just stood there together, two guys watching traffic.
There was one little girl who never said "Ittekimasu." Not once, for a whole year. Gus said "Itterasshai" to her every single day anyway.
On the last day of first grade, she stopped in front of him, looked straight up, and whispered it.
Gus had to turn around and look at a telephone pole for a while.
And then there's Yuto.
Yuto was born with one leg shorter than the other. He walks slowly. He's always last. Always alone at the back, watching everybody else's backpacks get smaller.
So every morning, after the last group crosses, Gus walks the final block with Yuto. Every day. At Yuto's speed. Talking about baseball. Never once hurrying him.
Last winter, on a cold morning in February, a delivery truck at the top of the hill slipped out of park.
Nobody was in it.
It started rolling. Down the hill. Toward the crosswalk. Toward two second graders in yellow hats.
The grandmothers on the other corners say Gus moved faster than anything that size should be able to move.
He got there. He shoved both kids into the hedge. The truck caught him across the legs and spun him into the curb.
Both children were fine. Not a scratch.
Gus's leg was broken in two places.
In Japan, when someone we love is hurt, we fold a thousand paper cranes. It's an old prayer. A prayer you make with your hands.
140 children folded a thousand cranes for Gus. Some of them were very bad cranes. The first graders' looked like crumpled napkins. Keiko hung every single one above his hospital bed anyway.
He came back on the first day of spring.
On crutches. Slowly. Keiko driving him to the corner at 7:15.
When he got out of the car, the street was full.
All 140 children. Lined up along both sides of the road, from the corner all the way up the hill. Teachers. Parents. The tiny grandmothers in yellow vests.
And they said it together. The word that answers "Itterasshai." The word Japanese families say when someone finally walks back through the door.
"Okaerinasai."
Welcome home.
For four years, Gus had said "Go, and come back" to those children every single morning.
Every single one of them came back.
And now they were saying it to him.
Gus stood there on his crutches, a six-foot-five Marine in a yellow vest that came down to his ribs, and cried in front of all of them. He didn't turn toward a telephone pole this time.
When the children started walking to school, Gus went to the back of the line. Slowly. On his crutches.
And there was Yuto. Waiting for him.
They walked the last block together. Two slow walkers. Side by side.
Yuto looked up and said, "Now we're both last, Yama-san."
Gus shook his head.
"Nah, buddy. In the Marines, the strongest guy walks at the back."
"Why?"
"'Cause from back here, you can see everybody you're taking care of."
Yuto thought about that for a long time.
Then he straightened up, and walked a little taller, all the way to the school gate.
America, you send your sons and daughters all over the world.
Some of them come home.
And some of them stay, and stand on a corner in the rain in a vest that's too small, and kneel down so a frightened child can see their eyes, and step in front of whatever is rolling down the hill.
You made him.
In a little town in Arkansas, a long time ago, somebody taught Gus that the strong walk at the back.
He's been walking there ever since.
Okaerinasai, America.
Your kind of man is still out there.
We've seen him.
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