Want to know the single most efficient use of British land? Forget almonds. The climate here would take one look at an almond tree and file a formal complaint. Forget avocados. Be serious. Forget quinoa. We can grow it, technically, in the way you can technically play the violin wearing oven gloves. The answer is grass. It covers roughly two-thirds of British farmland, most of it too wet, too steep or too poor to grow a single crop a human can eat. Useless ground, agriculturally speaking, except for two machines that turn it into food. Those machines are the cow and the sheep. The cow works the lower pasture, the sheep the hills too steep and bleak for anything else, and between them they take grass no human could survive on and turn it into complete protein, saturated fat and the fat-soluble vitamins your brain runs on, through a gut that has been doing the job, unmodified, for forty million years. We are told these animals are the problem. They are the only reason that land feeds anyone at all.