In one Australian town, a lot of people live underground.
Coober Pedy sits in South Australia’s outback, about 850 kilometers north of Adelaide. From the surface, it looks rough and dusty, with low buildings, piles of pale dirt and very little shade. Then you realize how much of the town is beneath your feet.
Homes have been dug into the sandstone, along with hotels, shops and churches. Locals call the homes dugouts. In a place where summer heat can be brutal, living underground keeps temperatures much steadier.
But the digging started for another reason.
Opal was discovered here in 1915, and Coober Pedy grew around the people who came looking for it. Miners cut shafts into the ground, and some eventually used the same skills to carve out places to live. After World War I, returning soldiers helped make underground homes more common.
You can still see that history all over town. Bedrooms, kitchens and living rooms are cut straight into the rock. There are underground churches, hotels and old mines that have been opened to visitors. Outside, heaps of excavated dirt sit beside shafts where people spent years hoping to find opal.
In 1920, the settlement officially became Coober Pedy. The name is commonly explained as coming from an Aboriginal expression meaning “white man in a hole.”
Mining brought people here from all over. By the late 1960s, workers from across Europe were arriving as opal prices climbed and mining equipment improved. That mix of backgrounds became part of the town too.
Coober Pedy still feels like a mining town. Dust gets everywhere. Equipment sits outside homes. The edges can look unfinished. You’re never far from some reminder that people came here to dig.
That’s what I find interesting about it.
The underground homes weren’t dreamed up as a tourist attraction. People were trying to work in one of the harshest parts of Australia and needed a better way to handle the heat.
The town grew around that problem.
Dig for opal. Dig somewhere to live.
That simple connection explains a lot about Coober Pedy.
It’s the kind of place I write about in my newsletter. The underground homes pull you in, but the mining history is what makes the town make sense.
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