My cousin's son, Asahi, came home from Wyoming with fourteen pieces of paper.
Rodeo back numbers. The big paper squares cowboys safety-pin to their shirts. Asahi is 19. He spent the summer working on a cattle ranch outside Sheridan, and every Friday night he entered the small-town rodeo.
He got thrown off under every single one of those numbers.
He has never been happier about anything in his life.
On the back of each number, he wrote down one thing Wyoming taught him. He let me copy them. Here they are.
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112#
"Before the rodeo, a man on a horse prays into the microphone. Three thousand people take off their hats. He prays for the cowboys. Then he prays for the animals. In Japan, nobody prays for the bull."
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87#
"The American flag goes around the arena at a full gallop. Nobody sits. Not the old men, not the babies, not the guy holding four corn dogs. The corn dogs stood too."
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204#
"Mutton busting. Six-year-olds in hockey helmets ride sheep as fast as the sheep can run. Their mothers film it and scream 'HOLD ON, BUDDY!' In Japan, a six-year-old is not allowed to cut his own apple."
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9#
"Never put a cowboy hat on a table brim down. It ruins the shape. Four different strangers taught me this. One of them was eleven."
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156#
"Men here wear belt buckles they won in 1974. They do not take them off. A man at the gas station showed me his, and then told me about the horse, and then the horse's mother."
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61#
"The rodeo clowns are not clowns. When a cowboy falls, they run toward the bull. Their entire job is to make the bull choose them instead. I asked one of them why. He said, 'Somebody's gotta be more interesting than the kid on the ground.'"
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33#
"When a cowboy gets thrown and scores nothing, the announcer says, 'Let's give him a hand, folks. That's all he's taking home tonight.' And three thousand people clap louder than they did for the winner. I heard this thirteen times. All thirteen were for me."
The fourteenth number is different.
It doesn't have a ride on it. It's the night Asahi didn't compete.
On his last Friday, before the grand entry, an old cowboy named Ike walked up to him in the dark behind the chutes. Ike is 81. He has carried the American flag into that arena on horseback for thirty-one summers.
He handed Asahi the reins.
Asahi thought it was a mistake. He tried to give them back. He tried to explain in his bad English that he was not American, that he could barely ride, that he had been thrown off thirteen times in a row in front of these exact people.
Ike just took the flagpole out of the holder and put it in Asahi's hand.
"Flag doesn't care where you're from, son," he said. "It cares if you hold on."
Then the gate opened.
Asahi says he doesn't remember the first lap. Just the noise. Three thousand people on their feet. Hats on hearts. The flag so loud above his head it sounded like a fire.
He remembers the second lap. Because on the second lap, he looked up into the stands and saw the whole summer looking back at him. The rancher he worked for, standing on his bench. The eleven-year-old hat expert. The man with the 1974 belt buckle. The rodeo clown, hat pressed to his chest, face still painted. And a little kid in a hockey helmet, screaming the only thing he knew how to scream.
"HOLD ON, BUDDY!"
He held on.
Thirteen Fridays, thirteen falls. Not this one.
When he rode out of the arena, Ike was waiting by the gate. Not a word. One nod. He took the reins back and walked off into the dark.
Asahi's mother told me the fourteen numbers are framed on his wall in Tokyo now, in a row.
Thirteen of them say he lost.
The last one has nothing written on the back at all. He said he tried. He said there's no Japanese for it, and his English isn't good enough yet.
So I'll say it for him, Wyoming.
That's all he took home that night. And it was everything.