IMO, buying a vintage watch can be a prob for some people because you can end up with homework. The movement inside my not be reliable; the watch can be difficult or expensive to repair. If you shop for novelty, you should look into these things. By contrast, if you buy a post-1950s Rolex from a reputable dealer, it's something that will last many decades and be something a local watchmaker can repair.

The RAF Taylor Buoyancy Flying Suit is so great. Originally developed in 1942 for air gunners, it was made to keep the wearer afloat in water in case they were downed at sea. Made to be worn with heated gloves and booties. Would genuinely love to wear something like this in a more civilian form. The lapels and side cinches are great. Photos via Saunders Militaria (an incredible resource for vintage militaria), Militaria Zone, and the Instagram account a.bout___ (a terrific vintage menswear shop in Tokyo)

When George Washington was inaugurated in 1789, he wore a relatively plain brown frock coat. To the modern eye, the garment may look fancy, but it was relatively constrained for a man of Washington's position. Affluent Americans at the time tended to wear European fabrics, as centuries of textile tradition on that side of the Atlantic meant that their materials were finer, silkier, and more luxurious. Those who could afford to wear such materials often did, not just because they were more comfortable, but because they signaled status. Washington rejected this convention for his inauguration, opting instead for a plain brown frock coat made from an American-made material, specifically one produced by a relatively new upstart in Connecticut. It's also notable that his outfit for that day was considerably more restrained than those of leaders in other Western nations. For instance, check out this outfit on George III (slide one). In this 1762 coronation painting, we can see the British monarch wearing a gold damask coat with a velvet mantle lined and edged with ermine and trimmed in gold. Even his shoes featured solid gold buckles. Washington opted for something simpler because he wanted to send two political messages. First, he wanted to support domestic industry (hence his request that the garment be made from American woolen broadcloth). Second, he understood that the US was supposed to be a democratic republic, not a monarchy. Back in Europe, monarchs wore fancy ceremonial attire to reinforce their position in society. Washington, by contrast, chose something more restrained, signaling that he was not governing through divine right but rather through consent of the people. Irish-born architect James Holban also understood this when he designed the White House in the Neoclassical style, drawing from Georgian and Palladian architecture. Neoclassicism was a rejection of Rococo, which had been fashionable among European monarchs and aristocrats in the preceding decades. Most people will know Rococo from the photos of the lavish French palaces erected during the reign of Louis XV. Much like the elaborate ceremonial attire of European monarchs, these interiors were meant to impress upon people the wealth and power of European leaders. The visual grandeur reinforced the idea that these people fundamentally occupied a different social station from those they governed. To be sure, the White House was much nicer than what ordinary Americans at the time would have occupied. But much like Washington's inauguration outfit, Hoban's design was meant to balance the dignity of the office with the republican ideal that political authority ultimately comes from the people. Our leaders are not above us; they are here to serve us. That is why the White House was decorated in this relatively restrained way for almost 250 years, changing only recently. I have seen some on here suggest that glorifying the White House is meant to glorify the state, and thus the citizens. But this logic was historically used by dictators abroad, not US presidents.

Vintage watches you can get for ~$5k: — 1950s/ 60s JLC Memovox. Useful alarm complication! — IWC + Porsche Design compass watch. Nice 1980s vibe, but bracelet can be a bit fiddly — Universal Genéve Polerouter. Genta design; handsome lugs — Rolex 16030. Tasteful and versatile

When I see certain celebrated aesthetics on here, I think of that Yohji Yamamoto quote: "I think perfection is ugly. Somewhere in the things humans make, I want to see scars, failure, disorder, distortion." Some of the looksmaxxing stuff is too "perfect;" it does not seem human.

I started a podcast with @trufelman, where we read canonical philosophical and sociological texts, and then discuss how those ideas illuminate our understanding of dress. The idea is that listeners can treat this like a book club and read along.

This is actually a condescending view of working-class people. I grew up in a working-class immigrant family and we ate at Red Lobster and The Cheesecake Factory for "fancy nights out." But even we understood that the White House should not look like the inside of a Red Lobster. Working-class people are not culturally illiterate just because their experiences are shaped by their limited means.

first time seeing one of these four-quadrant charts that i actually enjoyed. not sure if it's a "bisexual perfume," but i really enjoy carlen parfums's "butch femme," which smells like pho (the vietnamese soup)

The latest issue of Brutus, a Japanese style magazine, is devoted to dogs. Features include menswear writer @wdavidmarx and his dog, tips on coordinating outfits with your dog, and guides to Japan’s best dog-friendly restaurants and parks.

A friend of mine works in AI and thinks bad things are about to happen. He sold his home and moved his family out the country. He said if you own a home in a walkable San Francisco neighborhood near a taqueria with good veggie options, you should sell your home right now.

My friend and fellow menswear writer Bruce Boyer is fond of saying that clothes are more important than the general public thinks, but less important than some fashion people think. I agree with him. I think there's a tendency — particularly on social media, where people are prone to self- promotion and self-aggrandizement — to position their pet interest as the "most important thing in the world" and everything else must be in service of it. Fitness people here stress the importance of fitness; stock gurus say you have to focus on finance and investments. Notably, these people often have something to sell you, such as a personal training session or self-improvement newsletter. Menswear for me is a hobby, similar to how someone might be into fountain pens or model trains. I think it can be fun and an interesting lens through which to understand culture. But I don't think everyone has to care about clothes, and I certainly don't think you should read someone's deeper, more important qualities based on their appearance, including how they dress. Bruce notes that clothing matters, but there are limits, and thus "we must leave the deeper aspects of our souls to priests, psychiatrists, and late night reflections." You can learn how to dress well, if you wish, without making clothes more than they are.

i'm sure the ability to fabricate convincing historical footage that eventually drifts across the internet, where it's picked up by people who present them as real, at a time when trust in educational and media institutions is already eroding, will prove to be a net positive